Train travel in China

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Travelling by train, through China, is a mystery journey, which takes you back in time to clacking wheels on the rails,the call of the guards as the train departs each station, the toot of the whistle,the lurch which almost dislocates your spine, as the train slowly gathers speed,and the rather late call from some unknown person who tells you, (so we were told)that the train is now in motion. How, that made us laugh for who could doubt it,the noise was beyond imagination,in this day of quiet rail travel,comfortable seating,and luxury surroundings, well, in comparison,thats what I mean.
When we booked this journey from Shanghai to Wohan,we decided to go by Chinese train,there is another service which caters for tourists,but,we wanted to get a feel for the people, their way of life, their culture,and we were not disappointed.
We became immediate stars,people passed our cabin,if the door was shut, there would be a gentle knock,on opening the door, there would be quite a few chinese, come to see these silly tourists who were travelling second,third class,there was many giggles,finger pointing, and often asked "how old are you",actually I got quite used to being asked that as it became the first question many chinese asked on first meeting.

There were many highlights to our trip, from the train guards coming to escort us into the dining car,where they took off their jackets and caps, made tea for us, and something abit stronger for the men, oh how we laughed trying to understand what each of us was talking about,photos were shown around,hospitality was shared and the dining car became a place of discovery.We were given the gift of sharing together, feeling that for those hours our lives were put on hold, as we made new friends.

Just before the train pulled into a station, a whistle would blow, we would be hurried back to our cabin,the guards would don jackets, and caps,and stand at attention, as the train came to a stop. Officals would then board the train, go through asking people for identification,travel permits,this was how we found out later, that even if one was travelling from one city to another within China, the citizens had to get permission,travel cards to do so.
The guards had left our cabin door open, this way the officals were able to see we were visitors to their country, and even though they looked at us in surprise,we were not bothered.Boy, as soon as they left the train, and the train was once more on its journey, the guards were back, hurrying us into the dining car once more, and hidden bottles were brought out, people were laughing, cups of tea were pressed on me,each cup needing to be drunk,given an opinion on,(done by either smiling, or a grimace)and much clapping of hands over my enjoyment of each cup, I mean who could not show appreciation for the fun that it was.

Food was also another gift, gladly given and received, as we had brought items of food with us, having been told that we might not enjoy the food that was available on the train. Most people seemed to bring their own, and some of the items digested that night,well,not even sure what alot of it was, it was one of those times, when ignorance is bliss.

There were of course a few people who had a smattering of English, so we had a few lessons,trading english lessons for chinese lessons,but I was more interested in learning about their lives, their way of life, their hopes for the future,work opportunities,and their families. I was amazed at their knowledge of their countries history,which seemed to go back many centuries,and how they had lived for many generations in the same village, with knowledge,jobs,passed down from father to son,and girls marrying, someone from a nearby village.I learnt of the struggle it was going to be with the flooding of the Yantzhe River,the affect for many poor farmers whos lives had been lived entirly upon the banks of that river, which had been a giver of life for many, with fish caught, and surplus bartered for other goods, the water used for growing of crops,washing,feeding any stock the farmer might have had, even its history,was very important to them,it seemed to us that the people would mourn the passing of the river,it was "of great sadness"as someone said.

It was with a sad heart we reached our final destination the next day,we had spent couple of nights on the train, with overcrowded poor facilities, lots of laughter,goodwill,and many cups of tea, so yes, it was a highlight of our visit to this mysterious, land called China.

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