Bhutan - A Kingdom High on Happiness

Everyone loves a fairytale. Wildly romantic stories of beautiful princesses and handsome princes, of brave kings and loyal queens all destined to fall in love and live happily ever after. Particularly when the fairytale takes place in a mystical kingdom tucked away high in the Himalayas and set to a backdrop of dramatic mountain peaks, ancient fortresses and far-away temples from which the chants of red-robed monks drift across the lush, green valleys. This is the Land of the Thunder Dragon, a tiny Buddhist country squashed between India and Tibet and often referred to as the world’s last Shangri-la. This is Bhutan.

With all the hallmarks of a magical kingdom, Bhutan boasts spectacular mountains, virgin forests, pristine rivers, clean, crisp air, striking views of the eastern Himalayas, a policy of Gross National Happiness (designed to respect cultural and ecological integrity while steering economic development into quality of life for the people), a revered King and a happy, contented people. Bhutan is also a country steeped in tradition successfully preserving its ancient culture with people continuing to wear traditional dress, consisting of a kira for women and a gho for men.

The country is named after the claps of thunder that shake the valley in the monsoonal months and was heralded in 2008 as one of the most exclusive destinations in the world - a major accomplishment for a destination that was closed to the world until 1974. Since then, via a measured and cautious approach to tourism, Bhutan has successfully limited the damaging effects of large-scale tourism and positioned itself as one of the world’s most captivating luxury destinations.

My first visit to Bhutan was undertaken rather bravely, in the winter of 2000, and while the bracing night-time temperatures were a true test of the intrepid traveller within, the days were warm and clear with brilliant blue skies affording unrivalled views of the Himalayas. These were particularly dramatic as we descended into the western valley of Paro. As the plane gradually emerged from the clouds and sunlight streamed through the cabin, a staggering expanse of snow-capped mountains filled the horizon. Shortly after, the plane dipped into the valley below, weaving magically between the mountains as if it were not a cumbersome piece of machinery at all but a nimble bird darting between trees, landing gracefully at the one and only airport in Bhutan.

For those looking for more excitement, Bhutan’s mountains and rivers are adventure playgrounds just waiting to be explored. Activities range from white water rafting and kayaking to hikes to far-away monasteries with the evening spent at a luxury campsite, dinners in the candle-lit grounds of an ancient fort, mountain biking on remote off-road trails to traditional hot stone baths prepared under the stars at night, perfect for those aching limbs after a long day of action. There is even the opportunity to learn the loved and ancient art of archery from the locals, or take time to enjoy a round of nine holes on the Thimphu golf course - at 2500m above sea level it is the highest one in the world!

But there is also a stillness to Bhutan, a peace, something bordering on the mystical that is encapsulated by the tiny temples perched high on the mountain tops, the soft, lulling prayers of the monks that float through your window in the early morning and in the distance the soft chime of cowbells as yak-herders traverse the rugged mountainside. For those looking to experience life on BST, or Bhutan Stretchable Time, as the locals call it, then this is the perfect place - enjoy a custom-designed yoga retreat, take a Buddhism workshop, contemplate life in a morning meditation class or indulge in one of the wellness spas offered by the one or two luxury hotels tucked away in the surrounding mountain forests.

In recent years, a scattering of exclusive and beautifully appointed properties have opened across Bhutan offering travellers the opportunity to enjoy a cross country six star experience. Thankfully, these have been designed thoughtfully and sympathetically, treading lightly on the pristine environments in which they reside. Aman Resorts has opened a selection of beautiful boutique properties in Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and most recently Bumthang in Central Bhutan and the secluded Uma Hotel (a member of the Como Hotels & Resorts group) commands wonderful views across Paro valley and has plans for a second property overlooking the upper reaches of the wild Mo Chhu river in Punakha.

Despite these developments, things happen slowly in Bhutan and sometimes not at all, which, for those like me, who, in a previous life made a career out of time management, timelines and being on time, can be the ultimate test of these well honed skills. But the rewards are priceless, opening up long stretches of time for conversation to flow, for spontaneous friendships to form and for warm, human connections to be made.

Returning to Bhutan several years later, this time to live, I found my most memorable moments to be those in which I let time give way and magic take over… a meander by a rushing river with a trail of little monks for companions… a visit to the vegetable markets for sweet, masala tea with a lovely old man who sells me luscious red chillies with a mischievous look in his eye, or at the local disco where everyone knows my name and I meet a Bhutanese Princess and my lovely new friends tell me I don’t need to pay for my drinks, not now, or tomorrow, maybe next time, another time, whenever you have time… I realise I don’t know the time…. the mountains so still, so ancient that they imbue a timelessness into your travels and you have no choice but to let go.

For those who make the effort to journey to this special place, so untouched by the harried angst of a far away world, there awaits an invitation to drop your worries at the door and relax into a gentler pace of life, letting the magic of Bhutan wash over you.

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• A trek to Tiger’s Nest, a sacred temple clinging dramatically to the mountain side in the picturesque valley of Paro.

• Brave a tentative taste of Bhutan’s fiery chillies cooked in a traditional dish of cheese, onions, and red rice.

• Soak under the stars in a traditional hot stone bath prepared with the healing waters of local springs.

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