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Washed by warm currents sweeping down from the Coral Sea, the Poor Knights Islands are ever present on the horizon of most of the North East coast of Northland, and the easiest harbour by which to access them is Tutukaka. Although the trip will only take a little over 35 minutes, it is a world away as you venture out to this “Middle Earth in the Middle of the Ocean”.
The islands are an internationally recognized icon, up for World Heritage Status and 23km off the Tutukaka Coast where the island’s 11 million year old volcanic origins provide myriad spectacular drop offs, walls, caves, arches and tunnels, all inhabited by an amazing array of underwater life. Isolated from the mainland for many thousands of years, they are the remnants of ancient volcanoes that erupted in the Pacific Ring of Fire.
Below the water, for 800 metres around the islands, is a marine reserve. Above, the islands are a nature reserve. Declared tapu by local Maori almost 140 years ago after a bloody massacre, the history is dramatic. Over 400 people use to live on the islands, with pa sites, marae, and terraced gardens. Left to nature, the archaeological remnants are the most pristine in New Zealand’s heritage, the only disturbance being the roots of the mighty pohutukawa canopy that has risen overhead.
Directly on the migratory path of a number of species, a trip is often accompanied by both Common and Bottlenose dolphins and there are several species of whales, including orca, minke, Bryde’s and pilot whales that feed off the coast.
The complex underwater landscape is a unique environment. Subtropical and temperate marine life coexists with extraordinary diversity, beauty and density. Over 125 species of fish share this environment with soft corals, encrusting sponges, vibrant anemones, ecklonia kelp forests, mating sting rays, visiting pelagic manta rays, gorgonian fans and myriad other life forms. Having been a Marine Reserve for over 20 years the fish behaviour continues regardless and they interact quite happily with snorkellers, divers and swimmers.
There are Australasian Gannet colonies, breeding grounds of rare seabirds including ternlets, and Buller’s shearwater. The only nesting place in the world for the tens of thousands of Buller’s shearwater that fly in from North America and share their burrow and eggs with the over 1000 tuatara that are resident. Bellbirds, native hawk, native parrot, native cuckoo and kingfishers create a birdsong that makes it easy to imagine what New Zealand would have sounded like in far gone days. There seems to be a special “X” factor and locals who are passionate about this place, seem to pass on the special feeling as you hear the tumultuous and tragic Maori history that makes this place so spiritual.
Snorkeling and sightseeing aboard Perfect Day; trips depart Tutukaka daily at 11am - 4pm from November through May, and include a delicious buffet lunch. www.aperfectday.co.nz
Diving trips depart daily at from 8.30am; passengers and snorkelers are welcome all year round, and kayaks are on all boats. Contact Poor Knights Dive Centre 0800 288 882
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