Off the radar in Norfolk

La Pérouse must have been gutted.

The 19th Century French Captain been at sea for two years and just escaped an attack that claimed the lives of twelve of his men before reaching the tiny isle Captain Cook described as an “Island Paradise” - only to find that his hero hadn’t mentioned that sheer cliffs and tall waves often make landings impossible.

Luckily we weren’t arriving by sea, but rather by a surprisingly brief plane ride from Auckland. An hour and a half flight seemed almost too good to be true to reach a South Pacific island. Although now officially in Australian territory, the island seems a world away … or maybe it’s just a step back in time.

The island’s fascinating history was cheerily explained by our tour bus driver, Lisle, who it turned out was also Speaker of the House when he wasn’t showing tourists around. The main centre, Burnt Pine, which looks strikingly similar to any beachside township in New Zealand – except for the lack of a beach, and the exceptional duty free shopping.

This is not to say that Norfolk Island does not have any beaches…in fact, Emily Bay may be one of the most picturesque beaches in the South Pacific. The crystal clear bay, protected by a reef is perfect for lazy swimming, while further out in the turquoise waters the snorkeller will see an abundance of fish and coral. If there are older or younger family members in tow, you can’t go past a glass bottom boat ride – which, in our case, was in a solar powered engine. No noise and no fumes, perfectly in keeping with the rest of the island.

Lisle took us to the lookout point above the bay with the nine hole golf course tucked in behind. Bordering the course are the beautiful and haunting ruins from the British penal settlement established at Kingston in the early 1800s. At the other end of the island, Mt Pitt there is both a spectacular view of the entire island and the starting point for numerous comfortable walks through the verdant forest. We took a walk with local guide Margaret Christian in search of the island’s birdlife.

“We get some visitors from Europe who come just to see the endemic birds,” explains Margaret. “There are a huge number of enthusiasts out there keen to take a photo of a bird that no one else they know has ever seen.”

Margaret’s path leads us through the dense forest past more remnants of the convict settlements hidden on Mt Pitt, where she tells us that family treks are becoming more popular here as the island attracts more holidaymakers looking for outdoor pursuits in a more tropical setting - and it’s easy to see why.

One of Norfolk’s most recent developments has been the establishment of its first vineyard, Two Chimneys. The vineyard is nestled into the hills and the perfect suntrap to spend an afternoon, as we did, sampling Australian wine, and tasting exquisite platters overlooking the vines.

There should be more reason for celebrations. Norfolk boasts unspoilt beaches, some of the cleanest air in the world, and is one of the safest - and friendliest - places in the world. And it’s all less than two hours from New Zealand.

For special deals collated just for GrownUps – including packages to Norfolk Island visit www.flightcentre.co.nz/grownups

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